{"id":2143,"date":"2023-07-03T16:07:27","date_gmt":"2023-07-03T14:07:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/covasna45.ro\/?p=2143"},"modified":"2023-07-03T16:07:28","modified_gmt":"2023-07-03T14:07:28","slug":"maroc-lumea-e-mai-mare-decat-stim","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/covasna45.ro\/index.php\/lumea-larga\/maroc-lumea-e-mai-mare-decat-stim\/","title":{"rendered":"Maroc. Lumea e mai mare dec\u00e2t \u0219tim\u2026"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u00cen prima zi, le-am vorbit studen\u021bilor din Maroc despre mecanismele pie\u021bei libere, despre capitalul natural \u0219i alte asemenea. Am pus cele c\u00e2teva priviri indiferente pe seama necunoa\u0219teri limbi engleze. Dar era altceva: ei locuiesc \u00eentr-o alt\u0103 cultur\u0103, neglobalist\u0103, \u00een care e loc \u0219i pentru forme cooperatiste. \u00a0Sun\u0103 cunoscut? Se nume\u0219te distributism<\/em> \u0219i din cauza lui a \u00eenceput r\u0103zboiul civil din Spania (ca s\u0103-l fac\u0103 \u201ebau-bau\u201d, l-au numit anarhism, pentru c\u0103 a atacat \u0219i biserica).<\/p>\n\n\n

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Prim\u0103vara arab\u0103 s-a am\u00e2nat pentru mult timp<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Firma ce ne-a plimbat dou\u0103 zile p\u00e2n\u0103 \u00een buza Saharei ne-a organizat toate mesele la restaurante ale cooperativei femelilor berbere, ce \u021bes covoare \u0219i produc ulei de argan. Pentru a nu fi nevoite s\u0103 migreze spre ora\u0219. \u00cencurajarea cooperativelor a fost o mi\u0219care politic\u0103 magistral\u0103 a guvernului din Maroc. A pus Statele Unite \u00een fa\u021ba unui situa\u021bii \u00een care nu mai puteau veni cu schema lor de joc: drepturile minorit\u0103\u021bilor \u0219i \u00een special al femeilor. A\u0219a c\u0103, \u00een loc s\u0103 finan\u021beze ONG-uri pe teme sociale, USAID a sprijinit direct cooperativele femeilor. P\u00e2n\u0103 prin 2019, se pare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0218i uite a\u0219a, Maroc a fost singura \u021bar\u0103 din nordul Africii care nu a \u201ebeneficiat\u201d de o prim\u0103var\u0103 arab\u0103.\u00a0Asta le mai lipsea, dup\u0103 ce c\u0103 nu a mai plouat de \u0219apte ani. Iar despre drepturilor altor minorit\u0103\u021bi nu cred c\u0103 se vorbi\u00a0prea cur\u00e2nd \u00een lumea arab\u0103. Pentru c\u0103 e mult mai normal\u0103 la cap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen Maroc \u00een\u021belegi altfel geologia, geografia \u0219i istoria.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Maurii \u0219i berberii au mai jucat de-a lungul istoriei o carte \u00een\u021beleapt\u0103: aceea a retragerii din Spania cu evrei cu tot, dac\u0103 Reconquista s-a dorit s\u0103 fie at\u00e2t de purificatoare. \u201eCu noi a\u021bi venit, cu noi merge\u021bi \u00eenapoi, nu v\u0103 l\u0103s\u0103m de izbeli\u0219te\u201d.<\/em><\/strong> \u00centr-un Kazbah,\u00a0casa tradi\u021bional\u0103 a zonei, la fiecare patru familii de berberi locuia \u0219i o familie de evrei. \u00cen situl UNESCO de la A\u00eft Benhaddou exist\u0103 \u0219i acum o sinagog\u0103 func\u021bional\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Din punct de vedere termodinamic, kazbahul este un co\u0219 uria\u0219, p\u0103trat \u00een sec\u021biune, \u00een fiecare col\u021b av\u00e2nd c\u00e2te un \u201eturn\u201d mai mic, \u00een care locuiau cele patru familii. Adic\u0103 nu un duplex, ci un quatruplex. \u201eTurnul\u201d principal este un fel de co\u0219 de r\u0103cire, ce face suportabil\u0103 c\u0103ldura din fiecare din cele patru case. Zidul are un nucleu de argil\u0103, ce este acoperit la exterior de un p\u0103m\u00e2nt amestecat cu paie, a\u0219a cum se f\u0103ceau la noi chirpicii. Tencuielile interioare \u0219i exterioare se ref\u0103ceau periodic, cu l\u0103s\u00e2nd mici g\u0103uri de aerisire a miezului. Kazbahul din prima fotografie dateaz\u0103 din secolul XI. Al doilea e mai recent \u0219i este locuit. Pe aceea\u0219i idee sunt construite \u0219i casele din interiorul medinelor, adic\u0103 al centrelor istorice. Mare parte din ele sunt transformate \u00een case de oaspe\u021bi, numite riad.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Petrolul…<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Lucrurile s-au stabilizat prea bine \u00een zon\u0103 a\u0219a c\u0103 a trebuit ca perfidul Albion s\u0103-\u0219i bage coada pentru a alimenta trufia \u0219i neiertarea, comune ambelor religii monoteiste. Explicabil \u0219i normal: cum s\u0103 ajungi la petrol dac\u0103 nu-i pui pe cei ce stau pe el s\u0103 se bat\u0103? \u00centre ei.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pentru Maroc, de vin\u0103 ar fi peisajul foarte t\u00e2n\u0103r \u0219i distribu\u021bia total aiurea a precipita\u021biilor. De\u0219i ramura sudic\u0103 a Mun\u021bilor Atlas e format\u0103 din tot felul de \u0219i\u0219turi, lipsa alternan\u021bei \u00eenghe\u021b-dezghe\u021b \u00eempiedic\u0103 dezagregarea rocilor respective.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Marea surpriz\u0103 a fost s\u0103 v\u0103d ni\u0219te martori de eroziune (a\u0219a li se spune \u00een geologie gogoloaielor ce apar, netam-nisam, \u00een mijlocul unor platouri) ce seam\u0103n\u0103 foarte mult cu mun\u021bii din iconografia ortodox\u0103. O simpl\u0103 coinciden\u021b\u0103? S\u0103 nu uit\u0103m c\u0103 grecii au colonizat primii zona. Alfabetul lor l-a inspirat \u0219i pe al berberilor.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Un pod nu doar une\u0219te dou\u0103 maluri, dar este \u0219i form\u0103 de a spera.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pentru marocani, mun\u021bii Atlas, mai ales ramura dinspre Sahara, sunt un adev\u0103rat Zid al Pl\u00e2ngerii. De\u0219i \u00een zona foarte \u00eenalt\u0103 plou\u0103 \u0219i ninge de dou\u0103 mai mult dec\u00e2t la noi, toat\u0103 apa se evapor\u0103 rapid, din cauza c\u0103ldurii \u0219i \u00een lipsa \u00a0unui strat c\u00e2t de sub\u021bire de sol. Sute de mii de hectare de piatr\u0103 seac\u0103. Lor li se potrive\u0219te cel mai bine ceea ce spunea Noica despre evrei, \u00een cele \u0219ase maladii ale spiritului: au avut doar dou\u0103 op\u021biuni –\u00a0s\u0103 pl\u00e2ng\u0103 la zid, sau s\u0103 mearg\u0103 \u00eenainte, cu zid cu tot. \u0218i asta fac marocanii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lec\u021bia de\u0219ertului…<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Sadoveanu spunea c\u0103 muntele transform\u0103 totul la genul proxim. Te apropie de esen\u021ba lucrurilor. M\u00e2ncarea devine hran\u0103, casa devine ad\u0103post. \u0218i de\u0219ertul, la fel. Nu degeaba izolarea \u00een pustie a fost op\u021biunea at\u00e2tor sfin\u021bi \u0219i sfinte, dintre care cea mai cunoscut\u0103 e Maria Egipteanca.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\u00cen de\u0219ert trebuie s\u0103 a\u0219tep\u021bi stelele. S\u0103 fii un Mic Prin\u021b. E un elementar exerci\u021biu de smerenie pe care \u00eel po\u021bi face, indiferent de c\u00e2t de mult crezi sau \u00een cine crezi. Contemplarea astrelor e cel mai vechi \u0219i cel mai simplu exerci\u021biu spiritual, pentru c\u0103 pune problema destinului \u00eentr-un mod accesibil tuturor. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pentru berberi, orientarea dup\u0103 stele f\u0103cea diferen\u021ba \u00eentre via\u021b\u0103 \u0219i moarte. Fereastra de timp \u00een care sunt vizibile este mic\u0103 a\u0219a c\u0103 cei ce practic\u0103 a\u0219a ceva au \u0219i exerci\u021biul r\u0103bd\u0103ri \u2013 o alt\u0103 virtute uitat\u0103 \u00een a\u0219a-zisa lume civilizat\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Economie la firul ierbii.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen Maroc se v\u00e2nd \u00eenc\u0103 \u021big\u0103ri la bucat\u0103 \u0219i se joac\u0103 Bingo. Ce lipse\u0219te, pentru a fi Rom\u00e2nia anilor 90, este alba-neagra. Economia e greu de fiscalizat. Dar e treaba lor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen lumea arab\u0103 comer\u021bul, informal, e mai degrab\u0103 un mod de a rela\u021biona dec\u00e2t un act comercial. Dup\u0103 aproape 20 ani de predat economie, har Domnului, am \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat \u0219i eu s\u0103 fac o negociere. Cu mintea prins\u0103 \u00een tiparele din \u0219coal\u0103, mi se p\u0103rea c\u0103 a negocia orice e o form\u0103 de l\u0103comie \u0219i nimic altceva. Cel ce cere e ho\u021b, iar cel ce accept\u0103 e fraier. A doua tez\u0103 e adev\u0103rat\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 discu\u021bie, dar depinde de context.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen Marrakesh am \u00eenv\u0103\u021bat \u2013 dup\u0103 ce am r\u0103mas f\u0103r\u0103 prea mul\u021bi bani cash \u2013 c\u0103 orice v\u00e2nzare este o licita\u021bie olandez\u0103: \u00eencepe de la un pre\u021b foarte mare, care coboar\u0103 treptat, p\u00e2n\u0103 este acceptat. \u00cen care intri sau nu, e op\u021biunea ta. \u00cel refuzi pe unul c\u0103-\u021bi cere prea mult, \u00eel refuzi pe al doilea, dar la un moment dat trebuie s\u0103 \u00eencepi s\u0103 negociezi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0218i, contrar temerilor mele, am v\u0103zut c\u0103 v\u00e2nz\u0103torul, de\u0219i a cerut ini\u021bial dublu, e fericit \u0219i cu jum\u0103tatea de pre\u021b la care s-a ajuns \u00een final. A negocia orice nu mi se mai pare o form\u0103 de neseriozitate, ci un exerci\u021biu ludic. A\u0219a e c\u00e2nd te apropii de pensie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0218i cam toate ofertele care \u021bi se fac \u00een Maroc sunt la pre\u021b dublu. <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Ca s\u0103 ai spa\u021biu de negociere. Spa\u021biul \u0103sta mi se p\u0103rea o chestie mai mult teoretic\u0103 dar nu e deloc a\u0219a. Cum r\u0103m\u00e2ne cu ein man, ein wort<\/em><\/strong>? Se aplic\u0103, dar dup\u0103 negociere. Adic\u0103, f\u0103r\u0103 acte adi\u021bionale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen politic\u0103 \u2013 \u0219i asta am v\u0103zut la FAO \u2013 negocierea e diabolic\u0103, pentru c\u0103 to\u021bi practic\u0103 negocierea \u00een lan\u021b. Aprob propunerea ta, dac\u0103 \u0219i tu o vei aproba pe a mea, la urm\u0103toarea tur\u0103. Care propunere s-ar putea s\u0103 nu aib\u0103 absolut nicio leg\u0103tur\u0103 cu tema ini\u021bial\u0103. Dar te \u021bii de ea, c\u0103 a\u0219a ai promis. A\u0219a ajungem s\u0103 avem politici, mai mult sau mai pu\u021bin publice,\u00a0 total aiurea. Deci nefiscalizarea celor ce v\u00e2nd \u021big\u0103ri la bucat\u0103 e r\u0103ul cel mai mic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bio-economia, o poveste altfel dec\u00e2t o \u0219tim.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Comparativ cu ce fac marocanii, de mii de ani, toat\u0103 tr\u0103nc\u0103neala european\u0103 despre economia circular\u0103 e doar o c\u00e2rp\u0103, prea ipocrit\u0103 pentru a \u0219terge cu ea copitele unei c\u0103mile. \u00centr-un singur loc mi s-a pus pe farfuria ce\u0219tii de cafea un be\u021bi\u0219or de plastic. Peste tot be\u021bi\u0219oare de lemn (din care nu prea au), tac\u00e2muri din metal \u0219i vase din ceramic\u0103. \u00cen sate nu am v\u0103zut peturi aruncate aiurea. Nu am v\u0103zut nicio chinez\u0103rie, la niciun v\u00e2nz\u0103tor de pe marginea drumului. Mult\u0103 ceramic\u0103, cu diverse utiliz\u0103ri.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

P\u00e2inea r\u0103mas\u0103 neconsumat\u0103 la c\u00e2mpie merge la munte s\u0103 hr\u0103neasc\u0103 c\u0103milele. Am vizitat t\u0103b\u0103c\u0103rii, at\u00e2t maure c\u00e2t \u0219i berbere. Peste tot aceea\u0219i tehnologie: f\u0103r\u0103 nimic chimic, nici \u00een re\u021beta de t\u0103b\u0103cire, nici \u00een cea de vopsire. Doar c\u0103 prelucrarea complet\u0103 a unei piei dureaz\u0103 o lun\u0103.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Spre Sahara, unde apa necesar\u0103 curmalilor e scoas\u0103 de la 50 m, au ap\u0103rut sporadic panouri solare pentru pomparea acesteia. Semn bun… Dar nu \u00eendeajuns. \u00cen gara din Marrakesh vezi \u00een timp real c\u00e2t produc panourile solare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Arta, alta dec\u00e2t aceea a covoarelor.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Dac\u0103 a r\u0103mas ceva nealterat (nu \u00een sens peiorativ!) \u00een acest melanj numit cultura marocan\u0103, raportat la sursa originar\u0103, acest ceva este muzica nord-african\u0103. Ritmul muzicii primordiale a fost, \u00een fond, nu doar un mijloc de comunicare \u0219i o prim\u0103 \u00eencercare de m\u0103surare a timpului.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Africanii nu pun prea mare pre\u021b pe melos, c\u00e2t pe ritm. Av\u00e2nd o scar\u0103 muzical\u0103 pentatonic\u0103 (ca \u0219i chinezii), s-au trezit c\u0103 nu le ies totdeauna la fel cele dou\u0103 lips\u0103 \u0219i uite a\u0219a a ap\u0103rut bluesul. Muzeul de Marrakesh are colec\u021bie destul de bogat\u0103 de instrumente vechi, dar ei nu v\u00e2nd (\u00eenc\u0103) \u0219i muzic\u0103 african\u0103 autentic\u0103. Am \u00eencercat s\u0103 vizitez muzeul Yieves Saint Laurent. Am renun\u021bat, pentru c\u0103 am ajuns prea t\u00e2rziu, subestim\u00e2nd timpul necesar vizit\u0103rii \u00eentregului a\u0219ez\u0103m\u00e2nt (vreo 4 ore). \u00cen preajma muzeului sim\u021bi elegan\u021ba parizian\u0103, adaptat\u0103 \u00eens\u0103 locului.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

C\u00e2teva sfaturi finale dac\u0103 merge\u021bi \u00een Maroc.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Indiferent c\u00e2nd merge\u021bi \u00een Maroc, programa\u021bi-v\u0103 c\u00e2t mai multe, din timp. Turismul e prima industrie a \u021b\u0103rii. Exist\u0103 \u0219i posibilitatea desc\u0103rc\u0103rii unor h\u0103r\u021bi, pentru a fi utilizate off-line de google maps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dac\u0103 cineva de pe strad\u0103\u00a0se ofer\u0103 s\u0103 v\u0103 conduc\u0103 \u00eentr-un loc, cu siguran\u021b\u0103 nu o face gratis. V\u0103 pute\u021bi a\u0219tepta la 5 \u20ac pentru colectivitatea femeilor, 5 \u20ac pentru soacr\u0103 \u0219i al\u021bi 5 \u20ac pentru copii. Asta nu \u00eenseamn\u0103 c\u0103 v\u0103 va duce \u00een locuri dubioase. Eu a\u0219a am descoperit Medina din Tetouan (sit UNESCO) \u0219i t\u0103b\u0103c\u0103riile din mijlocul Marrakesh-ului. Unde, s\u0103 \u021bi mai taie din miros, e\u0219ti \u00eent\u00e2mpinat cu un mic buchet de ment\u0103. Apoi e\u0219ti dus \u00eentr-un atelier, doar-doar vei cump\u0103ra ceva.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Diverse agen\u021bii organizeaz\u0103 excursii tematice \u00een fiecare ora\u0219, form\u00e2nd grupuri \u00een func\u021bie de limba \u00een care se dore\u0219te traducerea. Sunt bine organiza\u021bi. \u00cen ora\u0219ele mai mici toate tarifele sunt mai mici, mai ales la taxiuri. Pentru Sahara, versiunea de 3 zile e optim\u0103 din toate punctele de vedere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fotografiile din text apar\u021bin autorului.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00cen prima zi, le-am vorbit studen\u021bilor din Maroc despre mecanismele pie\u021bei libere, despre capitalul natural \u0219i alte asemenea. Am pus cele c\u00e2teva priviri indiferente pe seama necunoa\u0219teri limbi engleze. Dar era altceva: ei locuiesc \u00eentr-o alt\u0103 cultur\u0103, neglobalist\u0103, \u00een care e loc \u0219i pentru forme cooperatiste. \u00a0Sun\u0103 cunoscut? Se nume\u0219te distributism \u0219i din cauza lui […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":24,"featured_media":2150,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"tdm_status":"","tdm_grid_status":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[820,819,818],"class_list":{"0":"post-2143","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-lumea-larga","8":"tag-calatorie","9":"tag-jurnal","10":"tag-maroc"},"yoast_head":"\nMaroc. 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